Since 1983, Jean Paul Gaultier has drawn extensively from the history of corsetry to form the most definitive interpretations of the ‘underwear as outerwear’ trend. Dress, 1987, with its stretch panels and circular-stitched, coneshaped cups referencing 1940s and 1950s foundation garments, quickly became a modern classic. This influential work was a precursor to later versions that Gaultier designed for Madonna to wear on her Blonde Ambition tour in 1990.