John Galliano’s 1994 spring–summer collection was named after Misia Sert, an art patron, libertine and piano player who was friends with Gabrielle Chanel. Presented in the ‘Pin Up Studios’ in Paris and decorated with vintage cars, washing lines with silk lingerie, and erotic wall images, the collection featured languid 1920s bias-cut gowns, ‘oriental’ cocoon shapes and sharply cut 1950s hourglass silhouettes such as this retro-tailored skirt-suit.